June 4, 2025, 06:00
In the 1,400-2,800 USD price range, Swiss luxury watches offer limited options. While Longines has long dominated this segment, if you seek uniqueness and stronger individuality, Oris is undoubtedly the top choice. Oris is one of the very few remaining independent brands in Swiss watchmaking . Its watches are not only stylish but also boast increasingly refined craftsmanship and quality. A 10-year service interval coupled with a 10-year warranty is something few brands can match.
At this year’s Geneva Watch Fair, Oris’s flagship new release was the Big Crown collection. Priced at 1,400-2,800 USD , it stood out as a "breath of fresh air" amidst a sea of high-end watches costing hundreds of thousands or even millions. Among them, the most compelling pick is the new Oris Big Crown 403.
Oris , new large crown 403 model, 403 self-produced movement, green dial, salmon-colored dial, two color options, size 40mm, official price $3869.
Amid the vintage watch trend, the Big Crown series—inspired by Oris’s 1938 pilot’s watch—has become the brand’s latest flagship. Since 2021, the Big Crown line has featured Oris’s 400-series in-house movements. This year’s colorful dial editions, with green and salmon options, have captivated seasoned collectors. The attention to detail and specifications is exceptional, making it an "industry conscience" in the $3000+ range.
The new Oris Big Crown reverts to the small seconds layout of the 1938 original . The small seconds subdial sits at 6 o’clock, while the central "arrow hand" indicates the date, displayed on an outer track. Inside the date ring are railroad minute markers, followed by applied numeral hour indices.
The first standout detail is the three-dimensional applied numerals, which are highly sculpted and fully lumed. Second, both the green and salmon dials feature a pronounced grained texture, far more tactile than typical matte finishes. The domed sapphire crystal further enhances the dial’s appeal. Below the Oris logo, "5 DAYS" denotes the power reserve, courtesy of the 400-series in-house movement.
Launched in 2020, the Oris 400-series automatic movement emphasizes twin barrels for a 5-day power reserve. While movements like IWC’s 32000 or Blancpain’s 1315 also offer 5-day reserves, remember: Oris delivers this at just $3000+ compare that to IWC or Blancpain’s prices!
Oris also redesigned the automatic winding system for the 400-series. It avoids conventional ball-bearing or pin-lever rotors, instead mounting the rotor on a proprietary "slide bearing" for unidirectional winding, reduced friction, and minimized wear.
The 400-series incorporates a silicon escapement and pallet fork for higher efficiency (thanks to low friction) and 2,250 gauss anti-magnetism. Its accuracy of -3/+5 seconds per day exceeds COSC (-4/+6). Combined, these innovations enable a 10-year service interval and 10-year warranty. Again, for a $3000+ watch, this combination of 5-day reserve, 10-year service, and 10-year warranty is unmatched in its class.
The new Big Crown 403 has a 40mm steel case, 12.3mm thick, fitting most wrists comfortably. While past Big Crown models often featured coin-edge bezels, the 403 opts for a fully polished bezel and case sides. Most luxury watches use brushed case sides; Oris (like Rolex) chooses polishing, enhancing vintage appeal (as classic tool watches often featured polished sides).
The Big Crown 403 comes with leather or steel bracelets. A vintage-style strap elevates its charm.
Want something more affordable? Scroll down—there’s a $2200 option.
Rolex large crown SW200 universal movement model. Note that it is a three-hand watch.
Oris Big Crown with SW200. Note the center-seconds layout. Alongside the in-house Caliber 403, Oris also released a budget-friendly Big Crown with the SW200 movement, priced at $2200.
The new large crown of the SW200 movement comes in three colors: dark blue, light blue, and yellow. Please note that the large crown of the SW200 version is a large three-hand display, with the hour, minute, and second hands, as well as the calendar hand, all located in the center of the dial, which distinguishes it from the small three-hand crown of the self-produced 403 movement. The watch movement is transparent, and Oris still made the automatic rotor of the SW200 movement into a distinctive red color.
The SW200 Big Crown’s dials—especially light blue and yellow—are vibrant and fresh. The SW200 offers 38-hour power reserve, acceptable at this price.
This year's new Hublot large case crown features three universal movements in the middle and two self-produced movements on the left and right sides.
To be honest, in today's environment where all luxury watches are "raising their prices" and high-end watches are "fighting among themselves" at high prices, Hublot is still able to offer good-looking and high-performing watches at reasonable prices. This is truly remarkable and I would recommend buying them and cherishing them.
